Gabriela Perdomo is the owner of the tortillería and restaurant El Comalote in Antigua, Guatemala. More than just a place to buy tortillas and eat delicious things with corn masa, the almost entirely female run El Comalote is a project that is helping resurrect the links between criollo corn and consumers in urban parts of Guatemala. Like in Mexico, as well as other neighboring countries, the majority of tortillas consumed are from industrial corn. Gaby explains how the technique of making tortillas by hand remains dominant in the country, the choice of corn has changed drastically. There has been a shift away from the more difficult to grow native varieties towards the varieties that all look the same, grow extremely fast and produce massive quantities. However, these are less nutritious and often need pesticides and other chemicals to survive.
Since El Comalote opened in 2019, they have helped open the eyes of urban consumers and chefs in the country to the flavor of heirloom corn. I’ve been there a couple of times now and tasting these thick, brightly colored tortillas – red, green, orange, blue, black – shows how perfect of a food a great tortilla can be. You really don’t need much else. They also make other masa derived foods like tamales, cambrayes, chicha, chuchitos. and more. What’s important from this interview is to understand how Gaby has been able to do this. More than just getting the very best corn and paying them the highest price, she has listened to the indigenous farmers and their communities that she works with to try to understand their needs and concerns.
Also, there’s a great documentary about corn in Guatemala featuring Gaby and her work at El Comalote, alongside Deborah Fadul of the restaurant Diacá in Guatemala City. It’s called World Eats Bread: Tortillas in Guatemala, a Nat Geo documentary, that you can see on Disney Plus.
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