The Enormous Culinary Potential of Costa Rica, Redux

A movement that began less than a decade ago finds its footing.

The view from the dining room at Scala in Dominical. Photo: Nicholas Gill.

Years ago, well before the pandemic, I wrote about the early beginnings of a movement in Costa Rican gastronomy. Then, the chef José Gonzalez, had returned from years in France to open a restaurant in San José called Al Mercat, relying heavily on the produce supplied by his family…