Thalia Barrios García’s Mole de Hongos

From Cocina de Humo in Oaxaca, Mexico.

Thalia Barrios García’s Mole de Hongos. Photo: Nicholas Gill.

Mole, which I wrote about for Eater earlier in the year, is a rather misunderstood concept in Mexican cuisine. Much of what gets defined as mole are the classic moles of the Oaxaca Valley. These are the mestizo moles born in and around Oaxaca city, a collection of ingredients both native and f…