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Goodbye Llama San, Hello Papa San

Goodbye Llama San, Hello Papa San

The Evolution of the Peruvian American Restaurant

Nicholas Gill
May 19, 2025
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Goodbye Llama San, Hello Papa San
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Through the windows on 34th Street at Papa San in New York’s Hudson Yards. Photo: Nicholas Gill.

Peruvian restaurants in the United States seem to move in waves. I’m not talking about the migrant kitchens that opened in the 80s and 90s. They’re still around, with their national dishes and Nazca Lines décor. I’m talking about the last decade, maybe a litt…

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