Eat List: Barranquilla, Colombia
The bustling port city where the Río Magdalena meets the Caribbean Sea.
Is Barranquilla, Colombia’s fourth largest city, a Magdalena river town? Or a Caribbean one? There’s a clearly a strong Afro-Caribbean influence on the food here, but the Middle Eastern influence seems to be just as prevalent. While it doesn’t have the cruise ship appeal of Cartagena a couple of hours down the coast, with its picturesque walled old town and cartoonish islands, Barranquilla is wild and bold, with the sound of cumbia and smells of los fritos wafting through the gritty streets.
Twenty years ago I spent a few days windsurfing at a lagoon just outside of the city. It felt desolate. I stopped into Barranquilla proper briefly, but never got a good feel for it. Recently, I returned to be on a panel during Sabor Barranquilla, the 17th edition, certainly one of the longest running culinary festivals anywhere in Latin America. It’s clearly not the city I remember. Its natural attractions have been integrated into the cityscape, such as with the Gran Malecón along the river, the soon to be 10 kilometers of walkways in the mangrove forests of Ciénaga de Mallorquín, and rail link to the Bocas de Ceniza, where the river flows to the sea. The buildings are taller. There are modern restaurants that have joined the more traditional ones.
Yet, despite the development of recent years, many things are still the same. Barranquilleros do everything with their whole heart. You probably knew this from Shakira and photos of the legendary Carnival, but it applies to the food here as well. It’s a place to eat, drink and dance as if your life depends on it. Here are my recommendations: