Eat List: Asunción, Paraguay

Markets, cooking on tatakuas, tasting menus and art deco cafés.

Vorí vorí from Pakuri. Photo: Nicholas Gill.

Landlocked Paraguay has seen unprecedented growth in recent years. Nowhere is that more evident than the capital of Asunción, where a dining scene is taking off. Chefs with experience in some of the world’s great restaurants are returning home to work with native flora, cook on clay ovens called tatakuas, and give new life to Paraguayan recipes like mbejú and chipas, flatbreads and rolls made of yuca and cheese, as well as vori vori, a soup with small balls of corn flour. Here are my recommendations for where to eat in Asunción: